Thursday, August 28, 2008

Kilimanjaro (Andrew)

So we're finally back! After 7 long days on Kilimanjaro, we are proud to say that we're all healthy and alive. Yay. Its been a pretty grueling experience, but we made it. (PS I've added some new photos throughout, so look for updates).

We started at 6,000 feet from Macheme Gate, along a 5 hour hike through a rainforest at the base of the mountain up to camp at 10,000 feet. The forest was pretty dense with lush vegetation, rather muddy, but unfortunately lacked many animals. After my initial experience with altitude sickness (Scott will vividly remember this on Mt Schilthorn in Switzerland), I was very happy to suffer no ill effects on this initial climb. We all seemed in pretty good shape after the first climb, which was not overly tiring, but a good way to get in shape. Unfortunately the whole area was covered in a dense fog (actually clouds).

It wasn't until the next morning that we could finally see Kilimanjaro. We joked that it didn't exist up until this point, because no one had seen it through layers of clouds. We travelled up to 12,500 feet through a rather cool ascension of rocky paths with large boulders overlooking the clouded rainforest and valleys of senecia trees and bushes below. After about 4-5 hours of uphill trekking we finally settled at Shira camp, which had a beautiful view of Kilimanjaro on one side, and endless layers of clouds below with Mount Meru (the 2nd highest peak in Tanzania) sticking out from the clouds below. I took a picture of our camp at sunset with this exact view. At night we gazed up at the stars, which was one of the most awesome experiences, especially considering that in the US there's too much light obscuring our view of the stars. We could clearly make out the Milky Way, Mars, Venus, the Southern Cross, and almost every star in the sky. It was pretty cool.

The third day was a lot harder than we expected. From our initial hike, the trees and bushes gave way to much rockier terrain with only scatterred shrubs, almost no animals, and extremely harsh winds. Although starting at 12,500 feet, we eventually made it up to 15,300 feet at Lava Tower (a huge foot shaped igneous rock formation - Gabrielle you definitely know this, you Earth Science whiz!) Apparently from there it was only a 4 hour hike to the top. While tempted, we heard 10 Americans died going up that way about 15 years ago, and decided not to repeat their error. Instead we moved on to camp at 12,850 feet. Our legs were very tired, but our resolve remained strong.



On Day 4 we conducted our most technically challenging climb of the week, scaling the Baranco Wall, which Justin and I seemed to enjoy the most, but Rachel was a little less happy about. Although we could easily have slipped and fallen to our demise, the views of the glacial river valley below were awesome, as they were filled with 3 waterfalls, and neat rock formations. We hiked for about 3 hours that day, going down a moderately treacherous valley and coming up it to reach our campsite at 13,300 feet. As with the past couple of nights, they all were Freezing! We all wore most of our layers to sleep, huddled up in our sleeping bags, not wanting to venture out of our tents but for food and climbing.




Day 5 saw all signs of vegetation vanish, as we ascended the mountain to find a martian like terrain covered with rocks, more rocks, and rocks that oddly looked like broken pottery. The only thing that was missing was the red soil. We reached Barafu camp at about 2pm, at 14,910 feet, nearly 4,500 feet short of Uhuru Peak, the top of Kilimanjaro. Unfortuantely, we had to go to sleep by 5:30 as we would be waking up at 10:45pm to ascend Kilimanjaro!! Granted I don't normally go to sleep until 12-1am anyway, this was pretty challenging.



We woke up, working on 3 1/2 hours of sleep, starting our climb at midnight. Covered in about 5 layers of clothes, we marched our way up the mountain. I though 6 and a half hours might pass by pretty quickly, but was I wrong. Walking through the dark with only headlamps, we used every ounce of energy we had to reach our goal. I was so tired from lack of sleep that I tried to eat anything to give me some energy boost, but they were often fleeting. The air, steadily getting colder, gave me brain freeze, which I was afraid might be an early sign of altitude sickness. About 4 hours into the climb, we were almost completely out of energy. With 2 and a half hours remaining, and much more climbing left to go we relied on sheer willpower to move us forward. I knew that once we reached Stella's Point (about 18,600 feet) and about 45 minutes from Uhuru Peak, I'd be able to make it on adrenaline alone. At 5:45am we reached Stella's Point to much joy. Walking on with the light finally revealing a now relatively flat rocky surface with little snow, but ice formations shaped liked shark teeth littering the ground. To our left lay a massive glacier (although apparently receding). Finally at 6:30am we saw the sign for Uhuru Peak, the tallest point in all of Africa at 19,340 feet. We finally made it! We jumped for joy, took photos, and congratualted each other.

After 20 minutes on the top, and soon developing a headache, we made our way down, and as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, we needed to descend over 9,000 feet (about a 7 hour hike on top of our already 6 1/2 hour hike). This made for some extraordinarily sore knees, causing our muscles to tighten and our speed to grind to snail like pace. Finally at 5pm we reached camp at 10,000 feet, exhausted and ready to get off the mountain, but first sleep.

The next day we walked down the rainforest again, this time a little muddier. By 11:30am we reached Mweka gate and our long journey was over.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Arusha and Kilimanjaro

I'm sitting in the (very nice) office of Good Earth Tours, the company that is taking us up Kili and on safari in the Serenghetti and the Ngorongoro crater. Here's our Kili itinerary again --

August 22: pick up gear (including many layers of fleece, apparently it gets down to -23 centigrade at the top of the mountain and it's pretty chilly most of the way up), head to Machame gate, register, and hike 9,900 feet (which should take 5-6 hours). We've been advised to have a "strong breakfast."

August 23: hike to Shira, 12,600 ft, which should take 5-6 hours.

August 24: hike to Baranco, 12,850 ft, which should take 5-7 hours.

August 25: hike to Karanga Valley, 13,300 ft, which should take 2-3 hours (this is our added acclimatization day).

August 26: hike to 14,910 ft, which should take 2-3 hours.

August 27: Hell Day. Wake up at midnight and hike 6-7 hours up to the summit, at 19,340 ft, spend an hour there, then turn around and spend 5-7 hours descending to Mweka (10,010 ft) and camp.

August 28: hike to Mweka gate (3-4 hours), then head back to our hotel and crash.

After we get back, we'll shower and wash our clothes, then head out for a 5-day safari through the Serenghetti. More on that to come!

As for now, we're excited and apprehensive about the climb (or maybe I'm just speaking for myself). Machame (the route we're taking) is known for its gradual assent and not-too-terrible last day (compared to the other routes), and we're taking lots and lots of layers (and lots of Diamox, our altitude sickness medicine) so we'll definitely make it up. Think of us on the 27!!

Rach

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Dar-es Salaam and Zanzibar (Rachel)

Well we've been in Zanzibar for a few days and Dar before that (Andrew posted about Dar, but I'm going to add some too), getting ready to head back to the ferry, but more on that in a bit.

Like Andrew mentioned, Dar wasn't the cleanest, or most easygoing, or most exciting city we've visited so far, but we were only there for a night. Jambo Inn wasn't exactly the Ritz, either. We did manage to find a great restaurant called Chef's Pride, which we loved, and we're heading back for dinner there tonight. Walking around Dar was strange for me, probably because I've never been to a Muslim country before. The women were all covered up, and the call to prayer came out on the loudspeakers from the mosque a few times a day (including a little before 5 am, which was jarring). The same is true in Zanzibar, and I have to admit that it makes me a little uncomfortable to see 5 year old girls (and even an infant girl at one point) fully covered. It may just take some getting used to.

Dar was a little dirty -- I stubbed my toe on the street and talked nonstop for three days about how I was going to lose it (I'm sure the boys loved that) ;) Per Sarah's advice (DeCamp, my fantastic friend who has been to all of these cities before and has been giving me fantastic advice), I covered it with Bacitracin and I think I'll live. We were walking down the street when I heard Andrew yell "DON'T LOOK DOWN!" so, of course, I did, and I saw a dead rat bigger than Zena in the middle of the sidewalk. Ick!

As Andrew said, we picked up ferry tickets. We got on the ferry early in the morning (after our heartbreaking departure from Jambo Inn -- but don't worry, we're staying there again tonight) and headed off to Zanzibar. It took about an hour and a half, and I had a guy sitting so close next to me that he was practically in my lap with his armpit on my shoulder (I think Andrew mentioned the personal space issue ...) for an hour or so. We got off the ferry, went through immigration, and headed to Stone Town.

Stone Town is absolutely gorgeous. The beaches in Zanzibar are beautiful, with green water filled with dhows (African sail/fishing boats). After we got a room at the Garden Lodge (with three queen sized beds that had mosquito nets), we got lunch at a place with fantastic seafood overlooking the water, then headed into the market for a little shopping. Andrew got some good stuff, and I picked up a floor-length skirt (I was looking like a hussie, by Zanzibar standards, in my knee-length shorts and t-shirt). We headed to the Africa House (a very nice hotel) for dinner and drinks overlooking the water.

The next morning, we headed out on a spice tour. We drove about 45 minutes up the coast, then spent a couple of hours walking around a spice plantation, seeing vanilla, cloves, and tons of other spices growing. The "spice boys" followed us around, making us hats, jewelry, and neck ties out of leaves. After the tour, we went to a village for a delicious lunch of rice, spinach, and veggies, then we headed off to the north of the island for a couple of days on the beach. One driver dropped us on the side of the road in the village, and we waited about 45 minutes for another driver to come pick us up. Andrew made some friends and practiced his swahilli while Justin and I walked around.

We arrived in Nungwi (a beach town on the north side of the island) and quickly got a room in a bungalow near the beach (for $15 each per night, thanks to my feminine wiles and superior negotiation skills), then went to the beach to swim (Justin tried to drown me!) and then headed in to a bar right on the water to have some Kilimanjaro beers and wait for Justin's friend Katelin, who came to Zanzibar to meet up with us. Katelin somehow found us at the restaurant, and we spent the rest of the night drinking far too many beers and falling asleep on the beach.




The next morning we all woke up a bit hungover (and I had about 400 mosquito bites), and Andrew headed out for a day trip snorkeling at the beach while Justin, Katelin and I focused on getting out of bed :) We eventually managed, and spent some time lying on the beach and walking around exploring the island. Andrew came back, and we hung out a bit on the beach before we headed to dinner at a table on the water. My favorite little stray cat, who we named Trio (she only has three legs), sat under the table while we ate freshly caught kingfish that was incredibly delicious. Here's our table --




Now, we're in town, spending a little time on the internet before our two days of traveling start. In about half an hour, we're hopping on a public bus to head back to Stone Town (and save about 40,000 shillings over taking a taxi, thanks to savvy Katelin), then getting on the 4:00 ferry back to Dar. Once we arrive there, we're going to the bus company to get our tickets for the 8-hour bus ride to Arusha (the base of Kilimanjaro), then heading back to our favorite restaurant in Dar for dinner. Tomorrow morning, we're bussing to Arusha, starting our altitude sickness medication, and getting mentally prepared for our 8-day trek up (and back down) Kilimanjaro. We'll be out of contact for a while because after Kili, we're going on a 5-day safari through the Serenghetti, including the Ngorongoro crater, which is supposed to be really incredible.

Hope everyone is well!

Rach

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Dar Es Salaam

We arrived yesterday in the most beautiful city in all of Africa, Dar Es Salaam. Actually, that's a lie. No offense Dar, but I think I may have found my least favorite city in the world. (Oh yeah, in case you couldn't tell from the biting sarcasm, its Andrew again). Rachel likely shares the same sentiments as me, while Justin finds Dar a little more tolerable from his Peace Corps experience. There is a lot less personal space in Dar Es Salaam, and many places in Africa, which I think both Rachel and I are taking some time to get used to.

As soon as we exited the airport we were swarmed by about 10 taxi drivers, all offering us really bad deals. We eventually accepted a less bad deal. We entered our palace, the grandiose Jambo Inn. I would say that our hotel room was a complete shithole, but I believed that's reserved for the bathroom.

We walked to the ferry station to get tickets to Zanzibar (alas, we would have to wait a day). After brushing aside some fake ferry ticket sellers, we purchased tickets, which Justin and I both were highly skeptical of their validity. We then ventured off to dinner, which was excellent, and really cheap (About $4 per person). We soon found Dar was an even more boring town than expected, because there are so few places to drink (largely because it is a muslim city, where religious folk do not drink). We finally found an oasis in the middle of the city at a Dutch Hotel, where we enjoyed Kilimanjaro beers and a lovely enclosed lawn that could fit 4 wiffleball fields.

One saving grace of Dar Es Salaam is that it has a lovely shop right next to the Jambo Inn, where I ate 3 ice cream bars, and Rachel bought a Yorkie chocolate bar, much to Nestle's chagrin, who write on the label, "It's NOT for Girls." Only in Dar Es Salaam, and maybe Riyadh, Cairo, Khartoum, Yemen, Oman, Wajiristan, Sadr City, Gaza...

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Traveling and Johannesburg

We've hit a transition point in our journey -- we left Zambia this morning and flew to Johannesburg, got in this afternoon and came straight to our hostel, Brown Sugar Backpackers (awkward name!)

The driver picked us up at the airport, took us most of the way to the hostel, and stopped for "take away," leaving us in the unlocked, open-windowed car for about 15 minutes, returning with no food. Iiiinteresting ;) Our hostel is in an ex-mafia mansion, it's huge and gorgeous, and we're staying in little timber huts behind the house. Tonight, we had a delicious home-cooked meal and some Amarula (delicious African liqueur) on the rocks, and now we're frantically trying to book a place in Dar Es Salaam (our next step) so we're not sleeping in the streets :) Kidding, mom!

More to come -- next up is Dar Es for a night, then we're off to Zanzibar and then back to Dar Es before we head to Arusha and then to KILI!!

Rach

Botswana (aka Zambia day 3)



Botswana was not originally on the itinerary or the grand conception of the trip, but yesterday we found ourselves running after a mini-bus leaving the Jolly Boys hostel in downtown Livingstone because we were seven minutes late (African time, quoi?). An hour later we were driving through dry, dusty savanna on our way to Chobe National Park for a one day safari (apparently the best one day trek on the great continent).



For the first three hours we trailed an elephant forty feet from the truck; stopped ten feet from the closed eyes of a hippo lying under the baking sun in dried mud; spotted several giraffes feeding from a nearby tree; waited for fifty baboons to cross a poorly maintained dirt road; listened to baboon calls from the middle of myriad kudu and impala; photographed an African fish eagle perched stoically in a dead tree; admired a family of elephants (and two babies) bathing in the river. The next few hours we proceeded by boat that amounted to nothing less than a hippo and elephant safari. Wine and beers in hand, we chatted with our new traveling companions about the absurdity of this 125 USD price tag.

We have concentrated a lot of adventure and many countries into a few days: Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, South Africa (and tomorrow Tanzania). We traversed the rapids of the Zambezi to stare over the thundering rush of water from Vic Falls at sunset. We day trekked in Botswana. We walked with lions in Zimbabwe. I cannot articulately describe how comfortable it feels to be embraced by the warmth of Africa and the adventures she offers. Cape Town and the East Cape felt like a four star hotel in Italy and not much like anything I experienced in West Africa. Although beautiful -- and a gold standard of economic development for the rest of the region -- it lacked the challenges that motivated this trip. The proof could easily be found in the faces of Rachel and Andrew as we finally drove through Livingstone: the dirt, the colors, the sun. We finally found the adventure we originally sought.
-JTD

Zimbabwe (aka Zambia, day 2)



Yet another megaupdate post!

On day two in Zambia we decided to head to Zimbabwe for a lion walk. An organization called ALERT takes baby lions from their mothers when they are 3 weeks old and raises them around humans, taking them on walks and getting them used to their environments. They involve tourists in this process by charging fees, most of which go to supporting the lions, and then allowing the visitors to walk with the lions and PET THEM. Wonder where the appeal comes from!

We took a short drive to the border, paid our $30 visa fee, then got into Zimbabwe, a country none of us expected to visit because of its political and economic strife. After we crossed the border (filled with Zimbabweans heading to Zambia to buy things like rice and cornmeal -- food is in short supply in Zimbabwe because of how weak the economy is), we were picked up by the lion walk people, who took us to the park.

An aside: we saw two videos advertising the lion walk, both of which showed people rubbing the tummies of 20-30 lb TINY BABY LIONS, so naturally we thought this is what we were in for. When we pulled in and saw 300 lb monsters in the park, we thought these were the parents or something. Wrong. These were the 15-month old lions that we were going to walk with, pet, and cuddle (or so I thought). Apparently there are 9-month old lions, too, but they were kept off limits for reasons I'll mention in a bit.




We learned how to avoid getting our faces bitten off in a short presentation, then headed out to walk with the lions which, in spite of being pretty scary, was really awesome. We were just walking with them, then when they stopped to lay down (lions can sleep up to 20 hours a day), we would crouch behind them, pet them, and take pictures with them (we'll post them when we get a better internet connection). It was pretty amazing to be so close to such huge animals!



On the way home, we decided to stop at the Zimbabwe side of Vic falls for a comparison. It was pretty spectacular, and if we hadn't had such amazing access to the water on the Zambia side, the Zim side would've been a clear winner. There was much more water, and there was so much mist that everyone walking by us was soaking wet! We walked up and down, stopped to take some pictures, then headed back over the border and "home" to Zambia.

When we got back, we decided we'd send our laundry out through the hostel's service. Turns out it would've been like $70 USD to get all of our laundry done, vs. $1 for the laundry detergent so that we could do it ourselves at the hostel. It was pretty entertaining to watch (I'm sure) the three of us scrubbing our khakis in huge tubs (though Justin was a pro, having washed all his own laundry in the Peace Corps). We laid it out to dry, then chilled around the hostel before heading to dinner.

All in all, it was another fantastic day in Zambia (slash Zimbabwe) ;)

Rach

Zambia, day 1 (Victoria Falls)



(Vic falls, not our picture)

First day in Zambia, we got in late in the morning and headed out to see Victoria Falls in the afternoon after we checked in at our hostel, Jolly Boys (Justin and I were convinced that Andrew had booked us in a gay backpackers', but we were wrong). We caught a taxi there and walked around -- it's amazing! No wonder it's one of the seven wonders of the world!

We walked around and took tons of pictures around the falls, then found a little path where we got up to the pool of water that runs over the falls. There was a four inch wide cement beam in the water that you could walk across, and when we started and immediately chickened out, a guy came out and told us "make a chain, I'll take you." SMART.


We walked across the beam (luckily, there was a shallow pool with lots of rocks sticking out, so maybe certain death isn't guaranteed if you slip, but it's a little close for comfort), then realized we had a hell of a way more to go to get to the edge of the falls. 40 minutes later, we were regretting our decision to head out when we saw that the sun had completely set. We reached the edge of the falls after a harrowing walk through rushing water and I had a mini freakout about the possibility of walking back in the dark, but LUCKILY Derek (our local "guide", more like a freelancer or, as some might say, an "opportunist") took us on a shortcut through the part of the water he originally told us was too deep and dangerous to cross. We made it back before it was totally dark, and Derek walked us out of the park (after we paid the handsome fee he requested).





We hopped in a minibus (the locals preferred mode of transportation, much cheaper than taxis at 2500 kwacha, the not-so-strong local currency that goes 3500 for a dollar) and headed home, and were shocked to see ELEPHANTS on the side of the road in the middle of Livingstone, a big town in Zambia! There were about five of them, and it was fanastic.

That night, we went to Ngoma Zanga, a great local restaurant serving authentic Zambian food. Lots of great veggies, including pumpkin greens with groundnuts and sweet potato greens. It was fantastic, and we got to eat with our hands and enjoy some Mosi (the local Zambian beer) and listen to some great live music. We headed home at the end of a totally fanatastic and amazing day.

Rach

Stellenbosch and Franschoek


On this day (seems like a while ago now, but we have some catching up to do on this blog!), we went on a wine tour in Stellenbosch. We woke up early, got picked up by our unenthusiastic host, and headed off to the hostel where the tour would start out. We went to four different wineries during the day, got a little drunk, and forgot all about what happened (I'm updating this on 9/2 ... forgive me!) Later that night, Justin and I headed to Le Quartier Francais, a great little french restaurant in the adorable town of Franschoek. Dinner was fantastic (though expensive), and we spent a lot of time admiring the art on the walls and thinking about how lucky we were to get the last table (even after we'd tried -- and failed -- to make a reservation earlier).
We got a room in an adorable guesthouse, Roland's Huitspan, where the proprietor Harriet made us feel right at home (and Justin and I convinced Andrew that her name was "Sally"). "Sally" cooked us a lovely breakfast the next morning before we headed off!


Rach




Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Sorry no updates!

Sorry we've been out of touch, we left Cape Town and arrived in Zambia, which has less contact with the outside world than we thought it would. Big updates coming tomorrow!!

Rach

Friday, August 8, 2008

Impressions of Cape Town

Even though we've left Cape Town for the time being, I was thinking today about posting a blog where we could record our impressions of the city, since most of our blog posts are filled with details about our activities.

Here we are --

The Weather
Rachel: it's colder than I expected, and windier, too. I didn't bring many long-sleeved shirts or long pants, so I'm finding myself shivering and wearing my jacket more than I thought. Guess I should've remembered that the seasons are opposite in the southern hemishphere!

The People
Rachel: all in all, they're very nice, but I haven't had a sense that they're super overly friendly and thrilled to see us. We haven't seen a lot of poverty (South Africa is the most well-developed nation in Africa, but there's still a lot of it) except for the Townships we drove by, though Justin had a run-in with a child beggar which lasted a little longer than expected (until Andrew had to pull out his phone and threaten to call the police, which was a sight in and of itself).

I'm sure Andrew will add more when he edits the blog, and I'll add some later, too.

Hermanus

Rachel again!

Today we let ourselves sleep in, packed up and checked out of Ashanti Lodge (the adorable hostel we stayed at in Cape Town) and ventured into town for breakfast after we picked up laundry and Advil (we're still hurting from the Devil's Peak hike ...). We had a great breakfast and picked up some chocolate baklava for desert. We hopped in the car for a longish drive down the coast to Hermanus, a coastal resort town for Cape Tonians.

The drive down the coast was beautiful -- maybe even more beautiful than yesterday's drive to Simon's Town and the Cape. The rocks were red and orange, and the waves were crashing on the shore with such force that we could see rainbows in the spray. We pulled over and took some pictures before finishing up the drive through the adorable, tiny coastal towns until we got to Hermanus.

Hermanus was much more built up than we had expected -- we all remarked that we haven't seen a vacation community this nice anywhere in the states. We checked in at our hostel (Hermanus Backpackers, which is adorable) and headed down to the cliff path for some whale watching while we walked to lunch. Hermanus is known as one of the best whale watching points in South Africa, and it certainly delivered! Justin was the first to spot the whales on the walk down to lunch, but once we sat down at the restaurant, we started seeing whales everywhere -- we saw about ten whales breaching straight out of the water! It was fantastic, and I sat with my camera pointed at the ocean for almost the entire duration of lunch.
After lunch, we headed back down to the cliff path for dramatic views of the red rocks that ended at the ocean. We stopped at a few places to sit and take pictures, and climbed down to the water at one point when we saw a tidal pool. The view was breathtaking, and we saw more whale fins and tails.


As sunset approached, Justin found a great spot on the rocks out near the ocean, and we sat for about an hour while we watched whales swim in the ocean, flicking their tails and fins out of the water and blowing air out of their blowholes. All in all, it was a spectacular day.


We're back at the hostel now, about to go get a beer in the "honesty bar", where you take beer from the cooler and they trust you to record exactly what you took. Wonder if that would work in the US? ;)

Tomorrow, we're off for a wine tour in Stellenbosch. More to come!

Rach

Cape of Good Hope, part II

It sure was glorious chilling with the little penguins (no pun intended). Whereupon the completion thereof, we ventured down to the Cape of Good Hope, the most Southwesterly awesome point in all of Africa. Entering Table Mountain National Park, which extends from Cape Town down to the Cape of Good Hope, we nearly drove into a pack of ostriches and their little ostrich babies. They were so cute! After Rachel accidentally backed over one, the parents squaked at us, but put up a poor fight against our Toyota Corolla. (just kidding).

We traversed past the ostrich carcasses to the top of Cape Point, which is truly one of the most beautiful places in the world. Straddling the chilly waters of the Atlantic and the temperate waters of the Indian Oceans, tempests have been known to arise in a matter of minutes, almost swallowing Vasco Da Gama and his crew whole. Cape Point was breathtaking, with at least 400 foot cliffs descending into the Ocean, and tall waves crashing into the mountainside. Needless to say, none of us walked out past the cozy confines of the lighthouse area.
After summiting Cape Point, we drove down to the coastal road below to watch the sunset. We climbed up onto the large boulders as the waves crashed in the background. With the sunset in the background, it sure was lovely. Realizing that the park closed 20 minutes earlier, we hopped into the car, and raced for the exit, only to discover we were locked in for the night!!! With only a smattering of peanut butter, some jelly, and Justin's body warmth, I knew we'd be safe...at least until the baboons came. But then out of nowhere, we drove up to the gate, and through the magic of modern technology, the stop gate opened, providing our escape. With the sky darkening, we soon found ourselves driving up the western coast of Africa and increasingly lost. Fortunately, due to Rachel's driving prowess and handling of the left side of the road, she and Justin navigated us to safety.

After arriving home, we grabbed a slice of pizza at St Elmo's, the La Piazza of South African pizza joints. Actually, the pizza was positively awful. The crust was like flexible matzah, the sauce tepid, and the cheese flavorless at best. We tried to mask it with salt, hot sauce, eating only the topping covered portions, but ultimately not eating it was the best option. There truly is nothing better than New York Pizza. (And will one of you commenters out there please tell Justin and Rachel that New York Pizza is so good because of NY water, which is even imported from other pizza parlors nationally. If you can provide a link to a site, explaining this, it would be most helpful.)

Tomorrow, off we go to Hermanus and whale watching!

-Andrew

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Cape of Good Hope, part I



Here we are again!

This morning, we woke up ... late. Justin and I left the hostel early to drop off some laundry after yesterday's hike, and (of course) got lost along the way. While we were out, Andrew was dealing with the rental car company, switching our manual transmission car for an automatic (at an added price of nearly $10 a day -- oops). We came back and headed off down to Cape Point (the southwesterliest point in all of Africa -- maybe not the most impressive credential, but it's a fun drive). For the last two years (since my last visit to Cape Town) I've been going on and on about Simon's Town (a suburb of Cape Town) and how much I want to live there, so Justin was ready to see this fabled place. Tiny hitch -- in Cape Town, they drive on the left-hand side of the road. Guess who bit that bullet?

I took the wheel and daftly maneuvered us down the coast. We stopped in Kaulk Bay to go to Olympia Bakery, which (though recommended highly) wasn't the best bakery any of us had ever been to. We took our carrot cake and shortbread cookies out onto the dock and ate while we looked at the beautiful shoreline. Afterwards, we headed up to the real attraction -- Simon's Town.

After we paid 55 Rand each to get in, I was disappointed to see that the beach we had picked allowed us to walk on a long wooden deck and look at the penguins, but not touch them or poke them with sticks. We ooh'd and aah'd at the penguins for an hour and a half or so (Justin was thrilled), then headed down to the municipal beach to get a closer look. We ended up taking hundreds of pictures, but the real fun was getting to go in the water and get close to the little penguins. Andrew also got a great video of two penguins hopping down the stairs to get to the beach -- they are so adorable!

After the penguins, we continued down the coast to the Cape of Good Hope ... and I'll leave this one for Andrew to describe ...


Still to come --


Justin, me, and Andrew at the Cape Point lighthouse





R

Devil's Peak

Hello all -- especially my parents, who probably think I'm dead!


I got in two mornings ago, as Andrew mentioned in his last post. My first day we walked around Cape Town, heading from the hostel to the Waterfront and hanging out there. The next day we planned to climb Table Mountain, Cape Town's signature topographic signpost, the huge plateau that serves as the backdrop for the city bowl. We got directions from the travel guide at the hostel, picked up bread, fruit, PB & J at a local grocery store, and headed up the mountain. We walked up an extremely steep road from our hostel (just to say we walked all the way up the mountain from sea level to the top!) to get to the Table Mountain cable car. We walked another half an hour or so till we got to the base of the path, then headed up "Table Mountain." Scare quotes, you ask? Yeah.


We took a wrong turn about 10 minutes into the hike and headed up Devil's Peak (a fact we wouldn't discover until much later in the day). Turns out Devil's Peak isn't quite the tourist-friendly path we were expecting. After hiking up rocks in the hot sun for a couple of hours, we stopped for an apple-and-peanut-butter break (delicious) and kept going, ending up at an extremely steep and very narrow path that was almost entirely obscured with vegetation. The path got so steep at times that we were crawling up the mountain on our hands and knees (and those of you who know me will know how totally thrilled I was about this -- I have referred in my life a number of times to my "Darwinian sense of caution" and this wasn't exactly the leisurely hike I was expecting). Just about the time I was considering screaming at the boys for taking me up this godforsaken path when I looked down and saw a lone hiker climbing the mountain by himself. We chatted with him for a bit and he decided to come up the mountain with us -- his name was Lance and he was hiking alone. About half an hour later, we summitted Devil's Peak (I'll try to add some pictures when I'm done with this blog) and I was feeling really proud of myself. It hadn't been much time before one of the other guys on the mountain looked out over the looming clouds and told us not to wait around much longer. We took a few pictures and started back down, thinking that our trip down would be easier than the trip up. WRONG! It took us a long time to get down and it was quite difficult on our old knees.


Justin and Lance ran off ahead and Andrew kindly and patiently waited with me while I struggled down the mountain (half the time doing the crabwalk, scooting down the rocks on my butt to keep from tumbling down into the clouds -- sorry mom!), but it was actually a lot of fun. When we ran out of water, we filled up our bottles at a clear stream (then somehow managed to convince Andrew that we saw another hiker peeing at the top of the stream -- he believed us for a few minutes but didn't seem to care) ;) and continued the rest of the way down, stopping for PB&J on the way. It was pretty cold hiking through the clouds, and I had given Justin my hoodie (hysterically funny pictures to follow) to protect his delicate little skin from the sun, but we managed to make it all the way down. That night, we went out to a nice dinner at a fancy restaurant in Cape Town, Shogan. We had a great time, and headed out to the bars that night where Lance met up with us and told us lots of stories of all the girls he'd met in Cape Town (most of them while climbing Table Mountain ...). Justin and I left early and the boys went out and had a great time -- until 3 am ;) More to come about today's adventures heading down the cape!


Devil's Peak -- the mountain we accidentally climbed




Me and Justin on the mountain


The three JDs at the summit of Devil's Peak!
The three JDs with our new friend Lance at the bottom of the mountain


Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Cape Town Days 1 & 2

Gday mate! That's South Afrikaan for Hello! Actually, its Australian, but I wanted to see how gullible you were. Anywhoo, so Justin and I arrived in Cape Town early on Monday morning, after a short 8 hour layover in London. After failing to find each other in Heathrow's terminal 3, I ventured off to discover London, where I drank a brew with the locals and played with giant lion statues in Trafalgar square.

Our Hostel in Cape Town (Ashanti Lodge) is located with a view of Table Mountain in the background (then again everything in cape town has Table Mountain in the background).
On Aug. 4, Justin and I went off to the Harbor, which was pretty sweet. After being swindled away from a pancake joint into an Indian restaurant, we set sail for Robben Island, home of Nelson Mandela for 20 years. Unfortunately, it was formerly a jail for political prisoners. A former political prisoner gave us a tour. I wish I could have enjoyed it more, but I was about to pass out after getting 4 hours of sleep over the past 2 days. Maybe Justin can tell you more about it. I do remember that the island was covered with Rabbits who looked just like Loki!!! There were literally thousands of them (along with penguins).

Today, Rachel joined us for an exciting stroll around cape town. Justin had eggs, bacon, and I think toast for breakfast. We all visited a couple of museums around town, the South African Museum (natural history), and the National Gallery (art). Justin enjoyed the National Gallery more, Rachel and I enjoyed the South African Museum more...a theme of affinity for animals that would continue throughout the day, when Rachel and I were enamored (and Justin for a little less time) with some pretty awesome fur seals that hopped up on the docks to play with us. Ok, they just hopped up on the decks, which we watched from above.

We also walked around some botanical gardens, which were just lovely. For dinner, we ate at a very nice African place, where I had three species of antelope. They bring out three antelope on a skewer, let you take a bit of each, and then serve you your favorite, sans the hoofs, etc.

Tomorrow we're off to climb Table Mountain (you can google it to find out more). Its pretty sweet, about 3000 feet high, and has a flat top, where you can overlook all of Cape Town.

Hope everyone is doing wonderfully in the states.

-Andrew

P.S. For all of you brothers of mine out there emailing me about the newly found 125,000 eastern lowland gorillas, that's glorious, but we're visiting mountain gorillas, and we could really use 125,000 more of them, cause there's only about 600 left in the world. See what you can do. Thanks.

P.P.S Feel free to post any comments to our postings. We'd love to hear from you.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

The Three Tours: Kili, Safari, Gorillas

Kilimanjaro & Safari Info

Good Earth Tours, Inc.
27553 Cashford Circle, Suite #101,
Wesley Chapel, FL 33544, USA.

Tel: 813-973-4494
Fax: 813-925-4142
Toll free: 877-265-9003
Mon~Fri: 8:30am~5:00pm, EST
http://www.goodearthtours.com


August 21st, 2008: Arrival in Arusha on own; Good Earth to pay for a night in Arusha at mid level hotel, Jacaranda Hotel

Aug 22: Hit the mountain to Machame gate, after registration process start the hike to Machame Camp, 9,900ft, (5~6hrs)Camping, B,L,D.

Aug 23: Shira, 12,600ft, (5~6hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

Aug 24: Baranco, 12,850ft (5~7hrs) Camping, B,L,D

Aug 25: Karanga Valley, 13,300ft (2~3hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

Aug 26: Barafu, 14,910ft (2~3hrs) Camping, B,L,D.

Aug 27: Summit, 19,340ft (6~7hrs), then descend to Mweka 10,010ft (5~7hrs), Camping, B,L,D.

Aug 28: Mweka gate (3~4hrs), transfer to Arusha (1hr), Jacaranda Hotel, B,L.

Aug 29: Arusha/Lake Manyara
Leave Arusha for Lake Manyara ; game drives in Lake Manyara . The park is famous for its tree-climbing lions, CAMPING at Twiga Campsite
Estimated driving distance: 2.5hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: CAMPING, L,D.

Aug 30: Lake Manyara/ Serengeti:
After breakfast, we drive to Serengeti. Afternoon game drive in Serengeti, in search of large predators and the gentle herbivores on which they feed, CAMPING at Seronera Campsite.
Estimated driving distance: 4hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: CAMPING, B,L,D

Aug 31: Serengeti:
More game drives in Serengeti
Estimated driving distance: 0hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: CAMPING, B,L,D

Sep 1: Serengeti / Ngorongoro
After breakfast, we will have another game drive in Serengeti, then drive to Ngorongoro, with optional ($50/group) visit of Masai Village , and optional ($3/person) visit to Olduvai Gorge , CAMPING at Simba Campsite.
Estimated driving distance: 3hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: CAMPING, B,L,D

Sep 2: Ngorongoro / Arusha
Descend into Ngorongoro crater for game drives in the crater exploring the short-grass plains of the crater floor. This extinct volcano embraces 100sq miles alive with lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, buffalo, and many more games, then drive to Arusha.
Estimated driving distance: 3hrs drive
Activities: Game drives
Accommodation & Meals: Jacaranda Hotel, B,L

Sep 3: End of Tour after breakfast, B


Gorilla Tours Info

Gorilla Tours Ltd is :
Member of the Association of Ugandan Tour Operators (AUTO)
Certificate of Incorporation No. 47760
Trading License No. M 0013071
P.O Box 29333 Kampala, Uganda.
Victoria Loop, National Housing Lubowa Estate Plot No 934.
Tel: + 256 - 414 575789. call between 9.00 am - 5.00 pm
Mobiles: +256 - 772 445805, + 256 - 772 370263. these are 24 hours
Fax: +256 - 414 200221
Website: - www.gorillatours.com

Itinerary

Here's the itinerary, see next blog for more details

8/4 - 8/7 - Cape Town
Ashanti Lodge
11 Hof Street
Gardens
Cape Town
p. +27 21 423 8721
f. +27 21 423 8790
e. ashanti@iafrica.com
8/8 – Hermanus, South Africa
8/9 – Stellenbosch, South Africa (Winelands)
8/10 – Winelands & Cape Town
8/11 – 8/14 – Victoria Falls (Zambia)
Jollyboys Backpackers
34 Kanyanta Road
PO Box 61088
Livingstone
p. +260 213 324 229
e. jollybs@zamnet.zm
8/14 – Johannesburg, South Africa
8/15 – Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania
8/16 – 8/19 – Zanzibar, Tanzania
8/20 – 8/21 – Arusha, Tanzania
8/22 – 8/28 – Kilimanjaro (see below for more info)
8/29 – 9/2 – Safari (Tanzania)
9/3 – 9/10 – Kenya
9/11 – Travel to Uganda
9/12 – 9/14 – Gorilla Trekking (Tours (SW Uganda)
9/15 – 9/16 - Lake Bunyoni, Uganda
9/17 – 9/21 - Chimpanzee Trekking, Murchison Falls, White water rafting on the Nile,
9/22 – Return Home

Friday, August 1, 2008

Welcome!

Hello everyone!

This is Andrew, Rachel and Justin's blog for our two month adventure in Africa. We've finally finished the dreaded bar exam and we're all packed up and ready to go. I'll be heading off to Scotland for a few days first, then I'll be meeting the boys in Cape Town.

We'll try to update the blog once a week with pictures and lots and lots of stories of our adventures in Africa.

Rachel